Backpacking Around Ruapehu

I had been hiking a fair bit and decided to kick it up a notch with some backpacking. However, in NZ backpacking usually means you don't have to carry tent or sleeping pad because there are huts along the trails with bunks and twin mattresses! That means you can leave about 7-10 pounds of gear at home. Nonetheless, I still managed to fill my pack and all I could think of most of the time while hiking was what I should have left at home (large book, water purifier- the huts have rain catching systems to provide clean water, too much food).

In 1995, Mt. Ruapehu had a minor eruption that didn't kill anyone but let off a ton of ash. There are pictures of it everywhere. I had never hiked around an active volcano.


Tongariro National Park is about 2 hours drive from our house and I made an earlier blogpost about hiking up Tongariro on a day trip. If I was fancy, I would make a hyperlink but I am not, sorry. The current trip involved a 71 km hike (45 miles) over the course of 3 days. The maps provide time estimates of how long it will take to get from one hut to the next and getting between most huts should take 5-6 hours. Most people take 4-6 days to complete the circuit around Ruapehu but with no one to talk to, no dog to chase after and plenty of time on my hands I thought that I would leapfrog huts and finish in 3 days. Some of the retired people I met hiking with sore knees were quite jealous of this plan and I am sure that one day my knees will beg for mercy. For now, hike on!

The first picture is a sign that I came to along the way that will put a little fear in your heart. A lahar is water mixed with lava and can sweep down unexpectedly. In 1999, there was a lahar that swept away several bridges but thankfully didn't hurt anyone. They said not to stop in this valley for about 400 meters but the suspension bridge that you had to cross was very rickety with see-through slats, it was also 50-75 feet above the fast-moving water. Those afraid of heights needs not apply.

As you can see, much of this national park is like hiking on the moon. It was one of 19 scenes for Lord of the Rings and you can see why. Because the soils are poor and the conditions harsh, there are very few plants. Consequently, there are few birds, if any. I went hours without seeing one bird and certainly there are virtually no large animals although I was told there are a few deer in the forested areas. There are however mice in the huts and in one hut I noticed signs of them and dutifully bagged up my food and hung it. The nice New Zealanders that stayed in the hut did not do the same thing for some reason and you could hear the mice scurrying around eating there food all night long. At least they don't have the hanta virus.

Speaking of people, the huts are a nice way to meet people and spend the evening together if you are hiking by yourself. I enjoyed it. We told outdoors stories and they taught me about different hikes in NZ. My love of other people quickly died that night when we went to bed. This particular hut had bunks to sleep 6-8 people and we were just about full. I slept about 2 feet away from Alan, a nice man, but boy did he snore right in my ear all night long! Oh, how I wished for noise-cancelling headphones.

The last day it was very foggy with a lot of drizzle. You could only see for about a football field and the trail took you up and over these pretty exposed ridges. Thankfully it wasn't very windy. There were a number of stream crossings that didn't have bridges where the water was moving pretty fast and was almost to my waist. After years of subscribing to Backpacker, I have pretty good technique and managed to avoid any problems.

Unfortunately, the last 2 miles is a hike on a road back to your car. Just what you need after 3 days of solitude, hiking along a road with tourists driving past in their campervans. PS: Everyone who travels in NZ seems to rent a campervan and they come in all sizes except you never see any that are as big as houses like they are in the U.S. Here, they are reasonably sized, although I am sure they still cost and arm and a leg.

All in all, it was a great trip. I would love to organize another one if anyone reading this has some cash and time to spare and wants to go with me.

What is up with my face in this last picture! Am I confused, am I in pain. I have no idea, it was so funny-looking I had to post it. Sorry it isn't very scenic.